Gisenyi, now officially called Rubavu, sits on the shore of Lake Kivu with volcano views behind it and Goma just across the border. Getting there is half the fun, because the scenic route to Gisenyi climbs through terraced hills, passes the Virunga volcanoes and drops down to the lake. Here’s how to drive it well, where to stop and which car suits the trip.
The Scenic Route to Gisenyi at a Glance
The main road runs from Kigali north-west to Musanze, then west to Rubavu. It’s tarmac all the way, well signed and busy with trucks and buses. Without stops, allow 3–3.5 hours. With photo breaks and lunch, plan a full, relaxed day.
| Leg | Typical drive time | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| Kigali to Musanze | 2–2.5 hours | Steep tea and banana hills, roadside markets, first volcano views |
| Musanze to Rubavu | About 1–1.5 hours | Virunga peaks, potato farms, then the descent to Lake Kivu |
Rwanda drives on the right. The road is full of bends and climbs, so the times above already allow for slow lorries on hills.
Leaving Kigali: The First Climb
Head out through Nyabugogo early, ideally before 7am, to beat city traffic. Soon the road starts climbing and the views open up over deep valleys. Every slope is farmed in neat terraces, which is why Rwanda is called the land of a thousand hills.
Driving tips for this stretch
- Overtake only on clear straights; many bends are blind.
- Watch for cyclists carrying heavy loads on the downhills.
- Use lay-bys for photos rather than stopping on the road.
There are small towns along the way with fuel stations and simple cafés. However, fill up in Kigali so you don’t have to worry about it.
Musanze: A Natural Halfway Stop
Musanze is the gateway to Volcanoes National Park, and it’s the best place for a break. On a clear morning you’ll see Karisimbi, Bisoke and the other Virunga peaks lined up on the horizon.
Worthwhile detours
- Twin lakes Burera and Ruhondo. A short drive east of Musanze gives sweeping views of two lakes between the hills. Some access roads are unpaved, so a 4×4 helps.
- Musanze caves. Lava-tube caves close to town, good for a short guided visit.
- Lunch in town. Musanze has plenty of simple restaurants and hotel terraces.
Many travellers split the trip here, trekking gorillas one day and continuing to the lake the next. That turns a long drive into two easy ones.
Musanze to Rubavu: Volcano Country
This is the prettiest part of the drive. The road skirts the foothills of the volcanoes, past potato and pyrethrum fields. Then, after a final ridge, Lake Kivu appears below you, wide and silver-blue.
The last section is a long descent. So use a lower gear rather than riding the brakes, especially in a heavy Land Cruiser. Near Rubavu, look out for the Pfunda tea estate on the slopes outside town.
Also expect more traffic as you near the lake, because Rubavu is a busy border town. Trucks heading to Goma often crawl on the hills. Be patient, wait for a long straight, and you’ll arrive relaxed rather than rushed.
What to Do Once You Reach Gisenyi
Rubavu is a relaxed lakeside town with a long promenade, small sandy beaches and lake-view hotels. It’s a great place to slow down after the parks.
- Walk or cycle along the lakeshore at sunset.
- Visit the Rubona peninsula for hot springs and fishing villages.
- Take a boat trip to nearby islands on Lake Kivu.
- Tour a coffee washing station in the hills when it’s harvest season.
- Swim at hotel beaches; Lake Kivu is generally considered safe for swimming.
Most hotels have secure parking, so you can leave the car and explore on foot.
Carrying On Along Lake Kivu
From Rubavu, you can follow the lake south towards Karongi and then Nyungwe. This road winds along the shore with dozens of bays and hills. It’s slow going, with sharp bends and some rougher sections, so allow plenty of daylight.
That route turns your trip into a loop: Kigali, Musanze, Rubavu, Karongi, Nyungwe and back. Our road trips in Rwanda page has ideas for building it into a week.
Which Rental Car Suits This Drive?
The main Kigali–Rubavu road is paved, so you don’t strictly need a large 4×4. Still, the right car makes the day easier.
- Compact SUV, such as a RAV4. Good for couples sticking to tarmac and town roads.
- Land Cruiser Prado. More comfort and clearance for detours to the twin lakes and lakeside tracks.
- Safari Land Cruiser. Best if you’re combining the drive with gorilla trekking and Akagera.
If you’d rather enjoy the views than watch the bends, a car hire with driver is a great choice. Otherwise, self-drive gives you full freedom to stop wherever you like.
When to Go and What to Pack
The road is open all year. In the dry months, June to September and December to February, views of the volcanoes are clearer. In the rainy seasons, mornings are often misty in the hills, so drive with headlights on.
- A warm layer; Musanze is noticeably cooler than Kigali.
- Swimwear for the lake.
- Cash for small cafés and markets.
- Passport, in case you’re stopped at a checkpoint near the border.
FAQ: Driving the Scenic Route to Gisenyi
Can I drive from Kigali to Gisenyi and back in one day?
You can, but it’s about 6–7 hours of driving in total. Staying at least one night in Rubavu makes the trip far more enjoyable.
Is the road to Gisenyi suitable for a first-time driver in Rwanda?
Yes, if you’re comfortable with hills and bends. Drive in daylight, keep a steady pace and give trucks plenty of room.
Can I take my rental car into Goma from Gisenyi?
Crossing into DR Congo needs special permission and paperwork from the rental company. Ask well before your trip.
Where should I stop for lunch on the way?
Musanze is the easiest stop, with hotel terraces and local restaurants at roughly the halfway point.
Plan Your Lake Kivu Drive
Tell us your dates and whether you’d like self-drive or a driver, and we’ll suggest the right car and route. WhatsApp +250 725 074659 or email info@4x4carrentalrwanda.com.